Chimney Champ’sNew Bedford, Massachusetts, home page (508) 290-3860 Request a Visit
Natural stone chimney rising the full height of a shingle-sided house. Company photo library; not labeled with a town.

Chimney Masonry Repair and Tuckpointing for brick worn by salt wind and frost

Chimney Masonry Repair and Tuckpointing restores the brick and mortar of a chimney that still stands straight but has started to come apart at the joints. Failed mortar is cut out to sound material and repacked with a mix chosen to suit the old brick, and cracked or flaking bricks are swapped out. We do this work from the Union Street office in New Bedford for chimneys around the city, Dartmouth, Acushnet and Fairhaven.

Booked through our office at 227 Union St, New Bedford · Sun – Thu 8 AM – 8 PM · Fri 8 AM – 6 PM · Sat closed

Why chimney mortar wears quickly on the South Coast

A chimney is the most exposed brickwork on most houses. Around New Bedford it also faces weather off the water, and much of the masonry is very old.

  • Storms that soak every face

    Rain blown off Buzzards Bay soaks the sides of a stack, not just its top. Joints on the weather side erode first, and once they hold water instead of shedding it, the decline speeds up.

  • Old brick laid in soft mortar

    About 52.1% of New Bedford’s housing units date from 1939 or earlier. Chimneys of that age were usually laid in lime mortar softer than the brick, and repointing them with a hard cement mix makes the brick, not the joint, take the damage.

  • Tall brick end chimneys

    Early Greek Revival brick houses in New Bedford carry linked parapet end chimneys, and Fairhaven has a three-story end-chimney Federal house type. Those tall end stacks expose a lot of masonry to weather and need careful matching when repaired.

Housing ages, heating fuels and storm history come from the sourced notes on our community pages: New Bedford, Dartmouth, Fairhaven, Acushnet.

How the brick and joints are put right

The repair has to suit how the chimney was built and stop whatever let water in, or the new joints wear out for the same reason the originals did.

  1. Check every face

    Joints and brick are examined on all sides to see whether the damage sits on the surface or runs into the core of the stack.

  2. Work out the original mortar

    We judge whether the chimney was laid in lime or cement mortar and pick a replacement that is softer than the brick it sits between.

  3. Cut out failed joints

    Weak mortar is removed to an even depth, usually about two to two and a half times as deep as the joint is wide, without chipping the brick edges.

  4. Replace damaged brick

    Bricks that have spalled or cracked through are cut out and replaced with the closest available match in size and color.

  5. Pack and tool the joints

    New mortar goes in in layers and is tooled to a profile that sheds water and matches the joints around it.

  6. Close the water source

    If water is getting in at the crown, cap or flashing, that is fixed as part of the job so the repointing lasts.

Grinding out old mortar joints on a brick chimney from a scaffold platform.

Mortar needs above-freezing temperatures to cure, so larger jobs are usually planned outside the coldest weeks.

If loose brick runs through the whole thickness of the stack, repointing will not hold and a partial rebuild is the better repair.

What worn chimney masonry looks like

Most of these show up through binoculars from the street or the yard. There is no need to climb.

  • Recessed jointsMortar sitting well back from the face of the brick, or crumbling when scratched, has stopped protecting the stack.
  • Stair-step crackingCracks that zigzag through the mortar joints point to movement or to water damage over a long period.
  • Flaking brick facesBrick that has lost its outer face, often with chips lying in the gutter or on the shingles below.
  • White bloom on the brickEfflorescence, the white salt left as water dries out of masonry, on the stack outside or the chimney breast inside.
  • Smeared patches and caulkOld repairs with mortar spread over the brick faces, or caulk in the joints, often cover deeper trouble.
Scaffolding set up along a full-height natural stone chimney on a shingle-sided house.

Tuckpointing, a rebuild or something else?

Masonry repair and tuckpointing fit a chimney that is structurally sound but has worn joints and some damaged brick. If the stack is loose or leaning, or the trouble is really at the top, another service fits better.

Ask for masonry repair when

  • Mortar joints are eroded, sandy or open
  • A number of bricks have cracked or lost their faces
  • An old chimney needs a soft lime-based mortar
  • A leak has been stopped and the brick needs putting right

Ask about a different page when

  • Loose courses or a leaning stack: Chimney Rebuild
  • A cracked slab on the top: Chimney Crown Repair
  • Water coming in where the roof meets the brick: Chimney Flashing Repair

What changes the scope of masonry work

Repointing can mean a few joints near the top or the whole stack. These are the things that decide which.

How much of the chimney
Repointing the upper few feet is a smaller job than working the whole stack down to the roofline and into the attic.
How deep the joints have failed
Shallow surface erosion is quicker to put right than mortar that has decayed far into the core of the chimney.
Number of bricks to replace
Each brick cut out and replaced adds time, and older brick sizes and colors can be difficult to source.
Lime or cement mortar
Lime mortars suited to old chimneys take more care to mix, place and cure than a modern bagged mix.
Height and roof pitch
A tall end chimney or a stack on a three-decker needs more staging than a short chimney on a single-story roof.

No price list on this site, on purpose. Two chimneys that sound the same over the phone rarely are. Once someone from the New Bedford office has looked at yours, you get the scope in writing and decide from there.

More frames of this kind of work

Taken on Chimney Champ’s jobs and kept in the company photo library that all our locations draw on. The library holds no job addresses, so no frame here is tied to a street or a town.

Scaffolding set up around an exterior brick chimney during winter masonry work.
Work in progress on a brick chimney with two capped clay flues; dust drifts from the work area below.
Red brick chimney stack with uniform mortar joints and membrane flashing at the roofline.

See the matching gallery photosPhoto story: Fresh top courses and a metal liner cap on an older chimney

Tuckpointing and brick repair questions

Is tuckpointing the same as repointing?

People use the two words interchangeably for raking out tired mortar and packing new mortar in. The older, narrower meaning of tuckpointing is a decorative finish with a thin contrasting line of mortar along each joint. On this page it simply means repointing chimney brick.

Why not use the hardest mortar available?

Mortar is meant to be the weaker, more breathable part of the wall, so that it wears instead of the brick. Pack a hard cement-rich mix into an old chimney and moisture is forced out through the brick faces, which then flake. A matched mortar protects the brick.

Can repointing be done in winter?

Mortar has to stay above freezing while it cures, so long cold spells are not suitable for most masonry work. Small repairs can sometimes fit into a mild stretch. The office will tell you what is realistic for your chimney and the time of year.

Will repointing stop water coming in?

Only if the joints are where the water enters. Many chimney leaks start at the crown, the cap or the flashing instead. We check all of those, because fresh joints on a stack that still lets water in from above simply wear out again within a few winters.

Should the brick be treated with a water repellent afterward?

Sometimes. On brick that soaks up water readily, especially on a face exposed to the bay, a breathable repellent made for masonry can help. It goes on only after the joints are sound and cured, and plenty of chimneys never need it.

Booking, hours and general chimney questions are on the main FAQ; how a visit runs is on what to expect.

Have the brickwork looked at

Call (508) 290-3860 to reach the New Bedford office, or send a request with a photo of the chimney from the ground. We get back to you by phone or email to agree a day and time; a request on the website is not yet an appointment.

Request a Visit Call (508) 290-3860

Sun – Thu 8 AM – 8 PM · Fri 8 AM – 6 PM · Sat closed

Call Request a Visit